Okay, retrospective posts covering my arrival to the present are on their way (if I ever get the motivation to recall my first 6weeks here in detail of course). In the meantime, I’ve decided to keep up to date starting now. (Hadg, would love some help on putting photos into posts to make the wait somewhat more worthwhile…)
This past weekend I went to visit my mate Brook in Sadamitsu, about an hour west of Tokushima city up in the mountains. I’m absolutely floored by the public transport system here, maybe as a result of living in a city with the shittest ratio of competent train drivers/technicians to proposed running services in the free world for 25 years. Trains arrive and leave here to the exact second. The same goes for buses too, which amazes me more since there’s always the traffic variable. My junior high school is about 30mins out of the city and the bus stop is basically just a sign on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere. Still, every day, that shit rounds the corner at 4.52pm. Like clockwork. Unbelievable! But anyway, Sadamitsu is a town of a few thousand people surrounded by mountains with this crazy river running through its middle. Brook is probably the only westerner in 20kms so he was pretty stoked to have a visitor who spoke some English. We went out to an okinomiyake restaurant he started going to frequently after the owner’s son (Hide) came downstairs and pulled the Stratocaster off the wall and started jamming out some 80s power ballads. The kid can rock. They got on immediately since Brook was a music teacher back in Byron Bay who played with a touring 12 piece band called Kurtis (shameless plug – check them out!). While we were there Hide’s band arrived to practice for their gig in Tokushima city the next night. Not too many restaurants have I been to where the owner feeds you free shochu and beers for 5hours and you end up singing along to 60s and 70s songs at the top of your lungs. Tonnes of food, maybe 6beers and about 8 glasses of shochu, good tunes, 2400yen ($26). Good times!
Japanese hospitality is something I recommend every westerner experience at some point in their lives. What I love about my job here in Tokushima so far is that being a teacher affords you the opportunity to be brought into the community in a way that would not be possible as a tourist – people are really happy to host you/extend their friendship etc. because you are contributing to the education of the Japanese people (apparently). As a tourist, you’re unlikely to be invited to a Japanese home, asked to participate in a kendo club, presented with a real Samurai sword (like Brook was, the jerk), be shown how to play traditional Japanese instruments, dance the Awa Odori in full yukatta through stadium seating in the middle of the biggest dance festival in Japan, etc. etc. There’s few days where I don’t feel privileged and really grateful that I was accepted to the programme. Wiping the tears from my eyes, let’s move on.
Next day we set out to climb Tsurugi-san which is the tallest mountain in the prefecture. The drive up was pretty amazing. There are houses practically hanging off the side of these steep gorges, huts built overhanging 20metre drops to whitewater rapids and, of course, sections of the road itself missing since they’d collapsed into the river. Experiencing that was pretty special after spending a lot of time in the city and having only seen beach scenery as opposed to mountainous river-scapes. Brook drives through that sort of scenery every day and if he feels stressed, can turn off the main road and find a waterfall to swim under. We got to the car-park just in time for the impending typhoon to hit us full on and so never actually made it to the summit. Still, changing of the leaves is coming up and it will be twice as beautiful there, so we made a pact to come back soon. On the way back down we passed one of Tokushima’s few ski fields – a clear section of slope possibly 200metres long and not particularly steep with a busted-ass single chair that I assume was purchased from Russia for about $2. Looks like Hokkaido might be the place to go riding…
That night Brook and I made our way back to Tokushima city where we were met by Geneva and the 3 of us headed out to watch Hide’s band play at some club in Komatsushima – apparently the red light district of Tokushima, but also home to some of the best bars, clubs and restaurants in the city I know so far. Maybe because I’ve been hanging out only in the red light district. Sorry mum! We finally found the club we were looking for above another club and below a bowling alley or something. It was tiny, but had the most amazingly good acoustics I have heard since seeing A Perfect Circle at the Brisbane convention centre. I must admit it’s hard to convey the feeling I had watching these guys play. I suppose it was just really surprising to take a look at myself watching this amazing Japanese punk band surrounded by a room full of Japanese punks and emo kids in a small city in semi-urban Japan. It didn’t quite feel real. What I found weird was that between each song, the crowd didn’t really applaud (except for the 3 gaijin whistling and shrieking at the back), and instead of launching into the next song, the band stood back and had a chat with the crowd. It was interesting to suggest that to be a successful band in Japan it helps to have a stand-up comedian as a bass player, but every song was followed by a series of jokes and banter between the bass dude and the crowd. Either he was genuinely hilarious or he was just repeating over and over – “those 3 clowns can’t understand what I’m saying….!!” Remembering the dumb grins I’m sure we were wearing, I’m hoping for the former.
Yesterday was respect for the aged day so in true respectful fashion I slept in, had a long lunch and a few beers and tried not to injure any old people intentionally. The Japanese have a funny concept of national holidays, because everything was open. Except of course banks (including ATMs which close after a certain hour – why would you close them you fools, they’re AUTOMATED, you can just keep them on!?) and the post office, 2 places where you are more likely to see aged people than anywhere else. There’s tonnes of awesome jokes like that in this country. I love it!